04 November 2013

Pattern Puzzle - Skirt Twist

The Skirt Wrap #PatternPuzzle on the facebook page on Saturday was fast and furious race with photo finish in the final part of the solution - the TWIST!  Congratulations to all the fans and viewers who turned up on Saturday for the fun.  Below is the image of the pattern shape, wrong way up.


With this weeks post of the pattern solution and details I firstly must apologise for the delay in posting.  It turns out my original pattern shape was not entirely accurate.  As I prepared this post I realised that the pattern shape would not necessarily achieve the fit I had sketched in the design drawing.

If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

This is not an uncommon problem when translating design drawings to actual patterns, which is why we often have to sample a couple of times to perfect the fit.


So back to the pattern table to finesse the shape of the pattern.  I reworked the pattern plan with the following changes -  a greater angle on the front wrap, a lift in the CF skirt length and more tapering on the side seams towards the hem.
The pattern plan below shows the re-worked style lines to begin this pattern.  I am using the basic skirt block a size smaller so I have no garment ease and can use two-way stretch jersey.  If you don't already have your own skirt block there is a worksheet on the website (not too many dollars) with full instructions to draft your own Skirt Block.
  1. The side seams have been tapered to hug closer to the body.  
  2. The front hem line has been lifted on the CF to achieve the lift you see in the front of the design sketch.
  3. The wrap/twist feature in the front is located 4-5cm past the CF line and connected back to the lowered waistline.  
  4. Mark the front edge of the wrap feature angled back towards the middle of the left side skirt.
  5. I have marked the waistband at approx. 7cm wide at the side seams and through to the CB.  
  6. The intention is to open up the front edge if that wrap to include extra fabric for the twist and drape.
  7. Then to add the front and back waistbands to the top of this wrap line.



The pattern shape below is the final version of the pattern piece with the original skirt block marked with a dashed line.  The back dart allowance is eased into the folded waistband.  The side seam shaping can either be turned into a dart or eased into the waistband.  That will all depend on the fabric and the skill of the machinist with darts.
The front and back waistband have been laid along the fold line coming out of the front wrap feature.  No extra fabric has been added to the back waistband but the front waistband has been opened up to match through to the extra fabric in the twist feature in the front of the skirt. 


The image below is the comparison of both pattern shapes to demonstrate the subtle difference.  The red lines are the first pattern shape from the Saturday morning puzzle and the black lines are the final pattern shape.  The most noticeable differences are the increased angle on the front fold line into the drape, an increase in the amount of fabric and shaping over the back seat area of the skirt and a shorted CF length.


Even at this stage there is more testing and proving to be done before this design is fully realised.  Let us know if you have any questions about this #PatternPuzzle or any of the others featured on this blog.  We would love to hear from anyone who has a #PatternPuzzle they would like featured by Studio Faro.

If you share this post leave a comment or let us know so we can drop by and say hello.  
We love to see our work travel. :)



15 comments:

  1. do you add to the CF by slashing and spreading? and if so how much

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    1. I would estimate about 10 cm, or twice the amount of fold back attached to the waistband. Just enough to get a good amount of drape out of the twist. All these styles take a little experimenting before they are fully solved. Thanks for dropping by to comment. :)

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  2. Thankyou I love your blog!

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  3. what is CF?.....i love all the patterns in your blog but i have difficulty in interpreting them. i

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    1. Hi Amuche, thanks for dropping by. CF stands for centre front. Don't be too hard on yourself, these are difficult patterns to cut. Even those training as pattern makers would have trouble with some of these puzzles. Let me know if you have any questions. :)

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  4. Hello
    Would you share which is point of twist waistband in CF

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    1. Thanks for dropping by. If you fold the waistbands in half. then twist them around each other to come back and join onto the waist seam. I hope this helps. If not please come back with more questions. :)

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  5. Do you offer step by step instructions for this skirt and other patterns in your blog? I wish you were in the states. I would love to take some of your classes.

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    1. Hi Dahnyelle, thanks for dropping by the blog. Happy to answer any of your questions as you work through our pattern making instructions. The only written instructions are above and I check blog comments at least twice a day. We are based in sydney Australia. Is that any closer to you?

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    2. LOL No I live the US-Michigan. I just love your blog!! I wish I could take your classes.

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  6. Could. Please do.a video. Tutorial please I'm still lost

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    1. Thanks for dropping by the blog. So sorry it's not so clear. Unfortunately I really don't have enough time to make all tutorials. But gradually you will see more and more on the new blog location no the website. There is a recent twist post that may help your understanding. Please do ask questions. :) http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited

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